“On the night of October 8, 1987, Adrian Kojin sped south on the 405 Freeway, shifted into higher gear, and headed for the Mexican border, beginning an odyssey that set a new standard for the adventurous surfer. Kojin proved that adventure is still out there, waiting for anyone who has the courage to take it the wild way.”
“Think you’re gnarly? Try riding a motorcycle from Huntington Beach to Brazil. On the following pages you will find the details of this journey, in writings based on a diary the author kept during this epic surf trip. Free your spirit, enjoy the journey.”
Some people believe that destiny is written in the stars. Others, like Adrian Kojin, insist on writing their own destiny.
It wouldn’t be an exaggeration to suppose that Adrian unconsciously invented himself when he decided to cross the Americas in search of the adventures narrated here. But not even he knew how fundamental this trip would be to free his own soul and define the future of his existence.
For starters, the waves he got to know in those eight months on the road initiated him into the great mystery of surfing, the romantic way, without the internet and swell maps. The advantage is that the search transcends the journey and the meeting of the perfect wave starts to signify harmony with the energies of the universe. That way, in a sometimes strange and always revealing form, after so many obstacles on the journey, it's easy to see that you're not the one who finds the ideal wave. It’s the wave who finds you.
In writing about the experiences of that trip, Adrian also invented himself as a journalist. That path has led him to more travel, more waves, and most of all, to a profession he can put his heart into. I think that in itself is a lot.
When you're reading this book, remember that it's not just about the shenanigans of a big boy chasing some lost waves in the third world. This is the story of a guy who had a dream, and, having the courage to pursue it, found his own truth. And, not least, he did it while having a lot of fun.
– Felipe Zobaran